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#1 15-02-2016 15:19:57

Auchterlonie
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Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 37

Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

Following on from Steve's post I thought it relevant to briefly discuss my rationale for retro-fitting hickory shafts into pre-1935 steel shafted woods.

I choose pre-1935 and not pre-1940 (as per AGHS hickory playing guidelines) as it is generally much easier to identify a pre-1935 wood compared to a pre-1940 version. Up until about 1935 large club manufacturers such as Wilson and Macgregor were still offering hickory shafts as an option in many club styles even though they had long committed to producing and promoting steel shafted clubs.

By the late-1930's manufacturers were often using numbers (1, 2, 3) and/or traditional names on wood clubs and the use of the "Phillips head" screw in face inserts and base plates was increasing. Manufacturers were also experimenting much more with club head design compared to the first half of the 1930's. As a consequence it can be very difficult to differentiate between a pre or post 1940 steel shafted wood club.

A lot of the wood clubs I have chosen to re-shaft are very easy to identify as pre-1935 via catalogues and many are sold in both original hickory or steel shafted versions online. As a lefty It is difficult to come across decent playable hickory shafted woods. In championship play I use an original hickory shafted Alex Patrick Brassie from the tee and a Spalding 2 wood (with a repaired insert face) from the fairway.
I've yet to find a playable original hickory shafted spoon for use in championship play.

In social play I use a re-shafted 1935 Walter Hagen "Tom-Boy" spoon (see below).




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IMG_5304.jpg

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#2 15-02-2016 16:39:59

Pipdog
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Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 54

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

I too have sinned.

While I have enough playable drivers, I don't like to use them unless in competition.  I play social twice a week with hickories, so they get a bit of a workout.
I found this steel-shafted Milnecraft at the Salvo's for $2, and bought a bent hickory driver shaft from TM for $5.  I removed the steel shaft (lots of fun getting the pin out of the hosel - obvious from the pic), and fitted a temporary collar (read hose clip) over the hosel.  I then drilled out the shaft hole to the minimum diameter of the hickory shaft, and gradually (carefully) used the next size drill not going in as deep, etc.  I then round filed to the finished taper shape.

The finished product hits just like any of the other (hickory legal) clubs I have - its face is as hard as a rock!  And I'm not scared to give it a workout.  It's the only club I have seen with the word "Persimmon" stamped on the front of the sole.
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Have a few clubs, mostly junk, but all playable.

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#3 15-02-2016 17:30:15

Auchterlonie
Putter
Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 37

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

Rob
Interesting to see the end of the steel shaft not extending through the base of the club. Was there a screw through the base of the shaft back into the head of the club (hidden under the base plate)?

I've retro fitted about 15 steel shafted woods so far and have worked out a nice system for doing them. I will look into getting it posted somehow.

The beautiful thing is it saves the wear and tear on authentic woods and until the early steel shafted woods become as collectable as the hickory versions you can pick up some very nice woods for very little. Of course you need a hickory shaft to put in them but there are still original hickory shafted woods going for $20 or less on ebay.
Ross

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#4 15-02-2016 19:27:00

SFBUM
Putter
From: Chipping Norton NSW
Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 51
Website

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

You blokes are way too good for me.

That "Tom-Boy" gadget is a very attractive bit of gear . . . I thought about becoming a left-hander for a minute.


Gone golfing - be back at dark thirty.

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#5 16-02-2016 14:16:35

Pipdog
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Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 54

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

No Ross, there was nothing unusual under the sole plate - the shaft just ended under the plate.  The pin securing head to shaft looked like it had been press-fitted (hammered) into a hole drilled in the back of the hosel and shaft - it was a real mongrel to get out - probably rusted into the shaft.  I got most of it by centre-punching the pin and then small drill.  But the last bit would not budge.  I finished up with a cavity in the back of the hosel bigger than the filling in my wisdom tooth.


Have a few clubs, mostly junk, but all playable.

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#6 16-02-2016 17:22:31

Auchterlonie
Putter
Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 37

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

Rob
Got a couple of those myself, bit of a shame but you can disguise them pretty well. I usually colour the wood head black or a very dark colour and then use black resin in the hole. If you look for it you can see it but otherwise it all blends together.

What I've found works when I cant get the screws out of the hosel or base of the shaft is to drill up through the base of the shaft with a drill bit that just fits inside the steel shaft. What I find tends to happen is that as you drill up through the hosel screw it pushes back out of the hosel a little (usually enough to grab) as the drill cuts it in half. Because you have drilled the screw in half there should be nothing securing it into the wood head.

If not you should be able to punch what is left of the pin into the inside of the shaft where it will just fall out. If its still too long and gets wedged inside the shaft just drill back up through the centre of the shaft again and let the drill bit cut it away again. Eventually there will be a section of pin remaining that will fall out of the centre of the shaft. Then you can punch the remaining pin (on the opposite side of the shaft) further into the wood head and clear of the shaft.The smaller pins/screws show up a lot more in woods from the 40's and 50's and are very hard to remove without damaging the hosel. I've had several woods that have only had the base pin/screw which are way easier to deal with than a stubborn hosel screw.

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#7 16-03-2016 19:09:15

SFBUM
Putter
From: Chipping Norton NSW
Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 51
Website

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

Pipdog wrote:

I too have sinned.

While I have enough playable drivers, I don't like to use them unless in competition.  I play social twice a week with hickories, so they get a bit of a workout.

Rob,

Whereabouts do you play, and on what days?

My home course is closed for two days the week after next, and an away game never hurt anyone. :-)


Gone golfing - be back at dark thirty.

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#8 18-03-2016 12:57:19

Pipdog
Putter
Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 54

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

G'day SF***.  I usually play Wednesday morning 7am at Worrigee, often only 9 holes as Mrs also and shopping prevails.  Usually play Thursday morning 7am at Worrigee 18 holes, no Mrs.
Sounds like your course is closed in the week going off Easter - this could be an issue for looking after grandkids.
I am thinking a better arrangement would be to meet up at Boomerang - Maddens Plains - should be about half way in between.  We could chinwag at Kiama if you will be there (I will remember to bring the clubs you wanted).  Some of the other Sydney-ites might also be interested.
Cheers.


Have a few clubs, mostly junk, but all playable.

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#9 18-03-2016 20:33:50

SFBUM
Putter
From: Chipping Norton NSW
Registered: 19-10-2015
Posts: 51
Website

Re: Retrofitting Hickory Shafts (PartII)

Good plan.

There's a couple of blokes from the Shire that might be interested.

I'll ask around.


Gone golfing - be back at dark thirty.

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